fashionable films: Marie Antoinette

I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm becoming more and more excited about the release of Sophia Coppola's Maire Antoinette film next month! Though I've heard mixed reviews on how the historical accuracy goes, the eye candy portrayed in the previews certainly seems to make up for any deficiencies the film may have. I'm very much thinking I'll go opening weekend; and I think this might call for breaking out the extremely ruffled and lace-bedecked vintage blouse I have. ;) Would be quite fun to go Modern Roccoco!

The candy colored hues and opulence of the French court as portrayed in the film is sure to inspire more than a few to incorporate 18th century-esque styles into their everyday wardrobe. The most obvious is to break out the velvet ribbon chokers and ruffly poet blouses, a much more subtle (and thoroughly modern) way is to emulate the make up styles in the film. I do not claim to be any expert in make up, but I have been playing with colors and applications lately to try to get this look. Here's a few of my suggestions!

Pale skin is key to the look here. If you've already got pale skin, then you've got only to even it out. I swear by Mary Kay basic skin care lines; everything from mousturizer to foundation. I've also heard good things about the paler shades of M.A.C. foundation if you need to tone down a few shades. But don't do too much; the key here is healthy skin, not clown makeup! And don't forget to cover up any blemishes, red spots or under eye circles with concealer before applying your foundation!
Recommended: Mary Kay concealer and medium cover foundation.

Rosey, blushing cheeks were popular at this time, and to the modern eye it can look slightly overdone. I've struck a balance between costumy and modern by choosing a slightly brighter shade of blush than my natural tone; something like a dark rose. Cream blush is the best for this; all the powder blushes I've tried just don't smooth on or give the depth of pigment required for this look. The key for this 18th century look is to dab some blush on the apples of your cheeks, and blend in a circular motion over your cheekbone and slightly up toward the hairline (but not too much; otherwise it'll be too 1980s!). Put on more than you think you need; not only with the blending (rubbing) agitate your skin and temporarily cause it to brighten, but you'll be layering powder over this.
Recommended: Mary Kay Velvet Collection: Golden Ruby cream blush, Sephora Cheek Stain: Berry.

Now you need something to affix all those base layers! The lighter the powder, the better But beware of powders that have too much yellow in them; these will give the look too much color (even if this is what you normally use for your modern, everyday look). Either a very pale, barely pink powder or a translucent is best. Apply by using a brush and dusting lightly over your entire face; including your neck and shoulders (if exposed). Concentrate on creating a matte skin finish without caking on layers and layers of powder! Wipe excess if nessecary.
Recommended: New York Color transluscent loose powder, Mary Kay Dual-Coverage pressed powder/foundation.

There seem to be two predominating looks used in the film on Kirsten Dunst's eyes. Both are very natural, but one uses pinks and the other is tan/brown based. The first is one that I actually use on a daily basis. I find the best approach is to layer on the rose/pink shadow colors to get the correct shade gradiation. Start with a pale (almost white) pink with a bit of shimmer to it; apply to the whole lid, the inner and outer corner of the eye and along the lower lash line. Next, layer on a bright pink or rose on the lid, blending lighter toward the inner corner. Lastly, layer a dark rose (almost a rosey taupe) on the lid, concentrating the color in the crease and the upper outer corner.

For the brown based look, start with a pale, shimmery pink shadow. Apply to the entire lid and inner and outer corners. Layer a medium tan shadow across the lid, blending lighter toward the inner corner. In the crease of the eye and along the lashline, apply a dark, coppery brown, concentrating the most color toward the outer edges. Blend well. For this look, apply a gold eyeliner to the outer edges of the upper and lower lash lines.

Use a brown mascara for this look, since you want to keep it light and semi-natural. If your lashes are naturally very dark, them opt for just curling and applying a clear mascara. Brown is a better option for the rest of us. Curl the upper lashes only. Gently wipe the mascara applicator with a tissue before applying to the upper lashline only! Use a lash brush if clumping occurs. The key is to create feathery, natural looking lashes.

Finally, we need to address the eyebrows. Dunst's lashes are blonde; if you've got the same, honey toned brows, just shape, brush and go! I have darker lashes and prefer to accentuate those. I shape them lightly and then use a light tan brow pencil to fill in any gaps and enlongate my brows. If you don't want to bother with brow pencils, try a clear brow gel to keep the mess-free shape.
Recommended: Rimmel Volume Flash mascara (002 brown), Almay 1 Coat Nourishing Mascara in brown, Victoria's Secret metallic gold liner (availble only in stores), New York Color light tan brow pencil.
PINK LOOK: Rimmel Trio Eye Shadow in 630 "In the Pink", Mary Kay light pink highligter, Revlon .
BROWN LOOK: Mary Kay Tutti Frutti / hazelnut / lucky penny

There are two predominating lip colors used on Dunst through the movie; pink and semi-natural and deep rose. The first is the easiest (and perhaps the most practical for daily wear!). To get this look, first prime your lips with a light moisturizer, letting that sit for 5-10 minutes. Wipe excess if nessecary. Line the lips with a light pink lip pencil (same shade as your "naked" lips, or just a touch lighter), first drawing the outer edges and then using the pencil to fill in over the entire upper and lower lip. Next, apply a slightly deeper shade of pink gloss, being sure not to glop it on!!

The next look, the deeper lip color, can be done one of two ways. I'll go over the fastest (and my favorite) method first. This one requires lips that are crack/dry skin free, so I recommend using something like Mary Kay's Satin Lip Mask that will exfoliate and buff away the dry skin on your lips. Next, using a long-lasting lip stain, line the outer edges of the upper and lower lip and then fill in the entire lip. Let this dry thoroughly (about 1 minute). Apply a light coat of clear or light pink gloss overtop for shine.

The next look uses more traditional methods. Using a deep rose lip liner, line the edges of the upper and lower lip, then fill the entire lip in with the pencil; creating a slight "bow" shape as you go. Apply a light coat of light red or deep pink lipstick to the upper and lower lip. Finish with a coat of clear or light pink gloss. Although this method provides a very deep, intense color, it does not last as long and is more high-matienence. But it works in a pinch (especially if your lips tend to be dried out easily by long lasting lip products).
Recommended: Mary Kay Satin Lips Set
PINK LIPS: Loreal light pink liner, Mary Kay Signature Lip Gloss, clear, Rimmel lip gloss
RED LIPS/STAIN: Sephora Lip Markers/Red Currant, Sephora Shimmer Gloss, Precious Pink, New York Color clear gloss.
RED LIPS/LIPSTICK: Mary Kay Signature Lip Liner chocolate or red, New York ColorUltra Moist LipWear, Rimmel lip gloss, Mary Kay Signature Lip Gloss, clear

I hope you enjoyed this! Please note that these product/color recommendations are based soley on what I have tried; you really need (and should!) play with the color choices to find the perfect match for your skin tone and preferences. Otherwise, have fun!! :)

images from the movie courtesy kirsten candy.

1 comment:

jungle dream pagoda said...

Nice tutorial ,I too await this (or any movie by Sophia Coppolla) excitedley.As a former High Fashion make-up artist myself,I basically use powder and red lipstick,almost on target with Marie-make-up